
Bergamo, sitting at the foothills of the Alps, tells a tale of two cities: downtown ("Città bassa") and uptown ("Città alta"). The ancient uptown is in the truest sense up: it's perched on a hill and 17th-century Venetian walls encircle it. Downtown, literally down from the old town, is much younger, seeing most of its development in the last 100 years. A cliff railway, or funicular, travels between the two distinct sections of town.
The Galleria dell'Accademia Carrara is the main attraction downtown, and is one of northern Italy's most renowned galleries. The museum first opened in 1795 when Napoleon gathered all the pieces his troops had collected during their sweeping victories in the northern Italian states. Striking portraits by Lotto (who spent a dozen years painting in Bergamo) are among the classic works here, as well as excellent pieces by Mantegna, Tiepolo, and Bellini.
Once labeled the "city of muteness," the old town Città alta exhibits a quiet regality looming over the more modern and bustling downtown that sits at its feet. Old Bergamo's adjoining squares, Piazza del Duomo and Piazza Vecchia, are the heart of the old town. These squares were once called "the most beautiful place on earth" by the writer Stendahl. The Venetians are to thank for their majesty, having assembled them during their three centuries in power. The Palazzo della Ragione (Courts of Justice) is a highlight here, as are the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore and the Cappella Colleoni. Colleoni is also the namesake of Bergamo's main street, a cobblestoned treasure so narrow that a traveller can almost touch the buildings on either side while standing in the middle of the lane.
Milan is also a common destination for those landing in Bergamo's Orio al Serio Airport. This fashion mecca is a scant 40 kilometres from Bergamo, so you can be browsing the shops of Milan in no time after picking up your hired car at the terminal.
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